The island is only about fifteen kilometres across in any direction, but its coastline is so indented and its roads so winding that each bay feels like a separate place. That is the pleasure of it: a capital of duty-free shops, a beach under a flight path, a French fishing village full of restaurants and an uninhabited islet with turtles are all within forty-five minutes of each other.
We have grouped the pages below by side — not because the border matters when you are driving (it does not; you will barely notice it) but because it changes the currency on the menu, the voltage in the socket and the atmosphere at lunch. The third group covers the neighbouring islands you can reach in a day by ferry, catamaran or a very short flight.

